Flinders Ranges to Coober Pedy Day 14 to 19

Wilpena Pound was great. Rugged mountain ranges, animals and some Aboriginal rock carvings. Kael and I climbed Mount Ohlssen Bagge, 7.5km of pretty steep climbing. Kael was his chatty self for the whole 4 hours.

Our exit from the Flinders was through Brachina Gorge. Ruined pastoral outstations give way to spectacular rock faces. The dirt road follows the course of the river as it cuts its way through layers of rock. It is a Geologist’s dream. Various layers of the earth’s crust have been exposed dated to 5 and 6 hundred million years. This is tough country. It has seen tough people pack up and leave. There are plenty of rocks to build a homestead but you can’t feed your sheep rocks for long.

After a pleasant night camping at amongst the ruins Farina Station we made a path for Coober Pedy along the Oodnadatta Track. Farina which sits at the beginning of the Strzeleckie Track, was once big enough to warrant its own cricket ground and send 40 odd men to both world wars.

Plenty of sheep still graze on the salt bush. Salt is often encrusted on the surface of the pastures. 

At one stage we had a dingo appear from the bushes and run alongside and in front of the car. 




We also stopped to watch Kael’s favourite Wedge tail Eagle as he picked at some kangaroo road kill. He has an insatiable hunger for wedgies.

The Oodnadatta track varies between smooth 80km/hr dirt to dash shattering 30km/hr corrugations. After lunch in a wild and windy William Creek our progress was halted 1km out of town on a particularly bumpy stretch. The Prado just died. No power. Nothing. 

The clouds that were carrying rain somewhere, decided to have an incontinent moment just as we ground to a halt. As I inspected the engine looking for a large switch turned “off”, a passing Territorian offered a tow back into town. He kindly dropped us at the camp ground where we decided to set up for the night. NRMA offered us a tow to Coober Pedy for repairs. As we set up, a couple of fellow travellers cast their eyes over the fuse box without success. Before the sun set, I decided to use my $9 Ebay multimeter to test the electrics. Much to my delight I discovered a broken circuit between the battery and fuse box. Happy Days. Even happier when I joined it back up and started the car up. Now I know how McGyver felt every episode. I’m not sure whether the 3 men who’d gathered around encouragingly were angels, but we were certainly looked after. Do angels have moustaches? 

William Creek reminded Lissa of her year in Bourke. Dry, dusty, flat. Corregated iron dongas. Salty bore water showers. It made us appreciate our next stop in Coober Pedy. 

The kids were relieved with the smooth road. The parents wooed by the new kitchen, bathroom and playground. 20 cents for 3 minutes of blanketing, hot water, priceless.

Today we toured the town. Underground hotels, churches and homes. Museums tell the story of Opal mining in the area beginning around WW1. Opals are one precious stone that you can dig up with a humble array of tools and plenty of sweat equity. Most of the opals are worthless. Huge piles of dirt all around the area testify to the continuing search. 

One home we toured was dug into the hillside by 3 women in the 1960’s. After 10 years with pick and shovel they had kitchen, lounge and bedrooms carved out like a rabbit warren. Worth the effort for a constant temperature around 25 degrees when Summer days reach 50 and Winter nights 0.

The kids were happy with a bit of “noodling” (rummaging through the rocks to find a few low grade opal deposits. 

The Breakaways to the north of Coober Pedy provide some spectacular views of a long since vanished inland sea. It is a painters dream, with sharp drops and stark colour contrast.

Back at the caravan park Naomi has made friends with a little boy Jamie. Kael continues to greet people like he is Mayor of the nomads. Eva is getting the hang of Uno, even though she can’t count.

750km and we hit Uluru. Bring on the big rock.

Mildura to Flinders Ranges Day 9-13

North Western Victoria is sheep and grain territory. Fields are plowed ready for some rain and a new cycle of plant and harvest. The roadside is littered with old stone houses sadly abandoned and run down. It must be the middle of nowhere, these places are beautiful. Little towns spring up by a railway line, a lake, anything really. 

We pass the time trying to identify the little kites and falcons hovering by the roadside. With the help of the bird book we are becoming  familiar with the key features: wing shape, tail shape, colouring etc.

As we approach the Murray the signs warn of the fruit fly exclusion zone. Evidence of orchards and then vineyards becomes increasingly obvious. Mildura is the sultana’s version of Mecca. There are plenty of Almond, Pistachio and Olive farms amongst all the orchards. No wonder the Murray just squirts along. Our caravan park in Mildura is right on the river but it is hardly a spectacular vista. 

The skies are clear and the campground quiet, these are no small mercies. We need to get acquainted with some school work so we book in for 2 nights.

Crossing the border into South Australia involves a thorough vehicle inspection at Renmark, looking for renegade fruit. There is still plenty of fruit growing to replenish the supplies before the Murray heads south past Adelaide.  We enjoy a free sausage sizzle at Waikerie Mitre 10 and a car ferry at Cadell before we set up camp at Burra Creek Gorge. 

Our first free camp and we celebrate with a fire. The kids are abuzz with the surrounding nature. Up until now we have been to caravan parks. It’s a long way to the next big town. Fuel and food gets expensive from here on.

Leaving Burra we encounter a group of Wedgetail eagles. Kael has been talking about them ever since we left Sydney. Eva has been regularly asking “Where are we going? Are we in Australia?” 

A few more roadside stops were required with Emus and a lonesome Echidna demanding to be photographed.

The flat farmland with distant mountain ranges becomes ripples and rolling hills as we approach the Flinders Ranges. Soon we spot the characteristic red and green striped ranges and arrive at Wilpena Pound. 

The campsite sits at the edge of a natural stadium of rock. Sadly it is not a volcano. Nor is there any sign of Spinal Tap. The campground is just right. Within minutes of setting up we were passed by a family of emus. Kael took off on his bike and came a cropper in the river bed. There is plenty of bush walking and wildlife to keep us all amused. Apostle birds have stormed our camp in groups of about 12 and there are Mallee Ringneck Parrots. 

This afternoon we climbed to Wangara Lookout for a view of the range.

Tonight's dinner: a successful attempt at stovetop Naan bread and some tim tams by the fire. Kael will strike up many conversations each day with other campers. Tonight after dinner he was holding court with a few grey nomads sitting around a fire. When I came over after about 20 minutes of chatter (and a bit of food tasting) one of the blokes told me how much he was enjoying Kael’s company. “He’s a real little beauty your boy.” It's true.

Today was a picture perfect 17 degrees. You can forgive a freezing night when  you wake up to a day like today. 

Kids Journal Entries

Kael Journal

Kael Drawing

Naomi Journal

Party time and Bendigo Days 6-8

As anticipated, Aunty Doreen’s party went off like a robber's dog. Quality finger food combined with a couple of red hot numbers sung by a personal friend kept spirits high. I think there must be a song by Olivia Newton-John to match the sentiment of any occasion. All the talk was footy. I was able to keep face with an acceptable allegiance to Geelong due to my Grandee’s heritage in the area. A couple big Cats fans proudly revealed their premiership tattoos. I even polished off a VB to blend in.

Monday morning we parted company with Len and Sue and set off for Bendigo. This is the place of Lissa’s first 8 years and the current home of 2 of her Aunties. It’s a big town. Somewhere around 100000 country bumkins line-dance around this town. When we arrived in “Maiden Gully” I was expecting to see evidence of a Channel 7 camera crew, filming a TV drama. Alas we found a modest camping ground with a view of 2 emus fenced across the road. It suited real purpose for our visit, reliving the childhood of Lissa. First though, was the Op shops.

It had been over 20 years since Lissa had seen Aunty Lily. She lives with her husband Alan on a few acres at Eaglehawk. 

There is enough room for the greyhounds which they race all over Victoria. 

While the Ladies talked, the kids were captivated by the pet Cockatoo whose vocabulary included: “Hello Stupid”, “Wanna Drink” and “I ain’t been swearin”. You’d have to be pretty stiff not to enjoy the response when you say “Dance Cocky Dance”. 

Alan remembers being scolded for trying to give a young Lissa a few coins. 

I would have let him, but he didn’t offer this time.

Next stop was Woodstock on Loddon, to investigate where Lissa grew up. It is an expanse of dry pebbly fields, old windmills and stone houses. Not much changes in the country so we relied on the eyes of an 8 year old Lissa to guide us there. Peppercorn trees surround the house and pottery workshop. It’s been 27 years but the stone fence and windmill remain. Further down the road, the little primary school is no more.
 

A big day was capped off by a visit to see Aunty Liz. The youngest of her Dad’s siblings, Lissa has a real soft spot for Aunty Liz. She has many memories of looking after a little Lissa in the pre and primary school years. She also has stories about Gran and Pa. Apparently Gran would speak of her boys emotional behaviour in the pre-teen years: “He’s just feelin his oats”. There are plenty of oats around us at the moment.

Our family detour now over, we will head north west in the direction of Alice Springs, stopping in the Flinders Ranges, Coober Pedy and (of course) Uluru.

Melbourne Day 3 to 5

Oh Melbourne. You are quite the vixen, I can see why many fall for your charm. Although beautiful you are a cold, cold lover.

This Melbourne place is pretty ace. Yes, I said ace. It’s pumping with stuff to see and do. No wonder people brave the icy winter. An hour on the train, and we were at Flinders St Station. The weather on Friday was just clear enough to explore the city. Sight-seeing is made easy with a free bus which circles through all the sights. Melbourne is not bashful. In case you miss something the recorded voice over will tell you about the impressive university graduates and the street full of Italians. We were able to jump off at Victoria Markets and Southbank. The kids enjoyed the tram and a back street cafe.

Passing the MCG on the way in, I knew I’d have to find a game before we depart. It’s like a temple that sits and waits for the faithful to return. Saturday arvo was our chance, Richmond were favourites to beat the Dockers. The weather should have been an advantage to the home team. It was miserable. 

Rain is not a factor if you are a real fan and 43000 went home wet and disappointed after the Freo boys stole the cake (and the Lattes). Kael was reacquainted with a few words that you don’t hear at church. We went home satisfied with our taste of real footy.

Tomorrow is the party. I think we’ll be talking footy. 

Sydney to Pakenham Day 1 and 2

Little things matter, especially when you are travelling with kids. Our flight home from Toulouse proved to be as painless as you could hope. Maybe word has got out about the quality of the food and entertainment on Brittish airways, whatever the reason, our plane was rather empty. We gratefully stretched out over a whole row each for the 13 hours to Singapore.

Easy flights were a blessing but we needed all 5 days to get over the jet lag on our return. The kid’s body clocks were all over the place. There was just enough time to repack, see family and friends and tie up loose ends before we hit the road. Thanks Unke Bec.

Our first leg was an easy one. Len and Sue met us on the road and we stopped for lunch in Berrima. Those Southern Highlands look so nice from inside the car, but in winter, it’s a great place for a polar bear to retire.  Eva was stunned into silence by the bitter cold. First night in Gundagai was also a cold one. The kids slept well and awoke to their first frost. We will see a few more before we escape to the tropics. We avoided Melbourne traffic on our way to Pakenham by exiting the freeway and driving through Yea and Yarra Glen. Lunch and Op shopping in Wangaratta slowed us down so we arrived after sunset. We will be here in Pakenham until after Lissa’s aunty Doreen’s 80^th birthday party on Sunday arvo. Should be a big one.

Tomorrow we head into Melbourne for a little look see. I’ll be happy with a Tram ride and a Latte.

Our first crisis came early and was self-inflicted. In the apocalypse of packing up our house it seems that some of our carefully chosen kitchen items have been left behind. If we could fast forward 1 month I’m sure that we will call it a “crisitunity” (thankyou Homer Simpson). Permission has been given for some heavy duty OP Shopping to replenish our cooking arsenal. Now that’s what I call an Opshoportunity.