Mildura to Flinders Ranges Day 9-13

North Western Victoria is sheep and grain territory. Fields are plowed ready for some rain and a new cycle of plant and harvest. The roadside is littered with old stone houses sadly abandoned and run down. It must be the middle of nowhere, these places are beautiful. Little towns spring up by a railway line, a lake, anything really. 

We pass the time trying to identify the little kites and falcons hovering by the roadside. With the help of the bird book we are becoming  familiar with the key features: wing shape, tail shape, colouring etc.

As we approach the Murray the signs warn of the fruit fly exclusion zone. Evidence of orchards and then vineyards becomes increasingly obvious. Mildura is the sultana’s version of Mecca. There are plenty of Almond, Pistachio and Olive farms amongst all the orchards. No wonder the Murray just squirts along. Our caravan park in Mildura is right on the river but it is hardly a spectacular vista. 

The skies are clear and the campground quiet, these are no small mercies. We need to get acquainted with some school work so we book in for 2 nights.

Crossing the border into South Australia involves a thorough vehicle inspection at Renmark, looking for renegade fruit. There is still plenty of fruit growing to replenish the supplies before the Murray heads south past Adelaide.  We enjoy a free sausage sizzle at Waikerie Mitre 10 and a car ferry at Cadell before we set up camp at Burra Creek Gorge. 

Our first free camp and we celebrate with a fire. The kids are abuzz with the surrounding nature. Up until now we have been to caravan parks. It’s a long way to the next big town. Fuel and food gets expensive from here on.

Leaving Burra we encounter a group of Wedgetail eagles. Kael has been talking about them ever since we left Sydney. Eva has been regularly asking “Where are we going? Are we in Australia?” 

A few more roadside stops were required with Emus and a lonesome Echidna demanding to be photographed.

The flat farmland with distant mountain ranges becomes ripples and rolling hills as we approach the Flinders Ranges. Soon we spot the characteristic red and green striped ranges and arrive at Wilpena Pound. 

The campsite sits at the edge of a natural stadium of rock. Sadly it is not a volcano. Nor is there any sign of Spinal Tap. The campground is just right. Within minutes of setting up we were passed by a family of emus. Kael took off on his bike and came a cropper in the river bed. There is plenty of bush walking and wildlife to keep us all amused. Apostle birds have stormed our camp in groups of about 12 and there are Mallee Ringneck Parrots. 

This afternoon we climbed to Wangara Lookout for a view of the range.

Tonight's dinner: a successful attempt at stovetop Naan bread and some tim tams by the fire. Kael will strike up many conversations each day with other campers. Tonight after dinner he was holding court with a few grey nomads sitting around a fire. When I came over after about 20 minutes of chatter (and a bit of food tasting) one of the blokes told me how much he was enjoying Kael’s company. “He’s a real little beauty your boy.” It's true.

Today was a picture perfect 17 degrees. You can forgive a freezing night when  you wake up to a day like today.