Windjana to Cape Leveque

Most of the action on the Gibb seems to be on the western end of the track. The road is also much better leading from Derby to the West Kimberley gorges one of which is Windjana. Geologists must not be able sleep as they contemplate these formations, billions of years in the makings. As for me, I sleep like a fossil with these hot days and cool nights.

Walking into Windjana Gorge we encountered a Mulga Snake. It dropped down from a tree as Lissa and Naomi walked past. 2 metres of scales and fangs. Happy Birthday Lissssssssa!

Lissa’s birthday has arrived and after 12 years of marriage I know the perfect spot for someone who doesn’t like confined spaces, walking through dirty water or the dark. Tunnel creek is a remnant from an ancient coral reef which cuts its way 750m through the rocky range. After breakfast and a few little presents we waded our way through the cold water through the cave past stalactites and bats.

After a questionable birthday activity I pulled out the big guns, crunchy potato chips that I had stashed under my seat. All is forgiven. Then the cider, lamb curry and campfire naan. There were 12 baskets leftover so we were able to feed the French backpackers who shared our fire. Dessert naan with butter and spiced apple jam was as close as we got to a birthday cake.

It was 5 days of open fire cooking before we were able to refill our empty gas bottle. Then on the first use, the gas hose broke sending us back to the stone age for another 6 days. I’ve come to appreciate the simplicity of a wood fire cooking. Without all the mining, refining and transport of fossil fuels, it may just be better for the environment.

Finding our way back on the sealed road we headed in the direction of civilisation: destination Derby. This place has a most uncivilised landmark: The Boab Prison Tree used to hold the convicts being walked to Derby for sentencing. 

Lunch at the Jetty and a quick shop were a sufficient tour of old Derby town as we have bigger fish to fry. After 1200km of dirt exploring the Kimberley the novel combination of grass, a pool, power and free washing machines made us feel like royalty at the Willare Bridge Roadhouse. From here only 150km of sand separates us from the coastline north of Broome. Darwin allowed us to admire the ocean but soon enough we get to feel it. Middle Lagoon is the scene for such a reunion where whales breach the water and the sun sets over the ocean. There is an afternoon sea breeze as we setup under some trees. It’s quite a treat to hear the ocean from our tent and the water is warmer than Manly in the summertime. It’s like our own version of Home and Away: living in a caravan park, school at Summer Bay High, hanging out at the beach after school. No sign of Alf Stewart though.

Travelling down the coast opens the door to some salt water fishing action. The sight of a bent rod and a man holding up a big Queenfish drew me down to the rocks. It was the only fish caught and my only contribution was helping the young fisho from the water after he dived in to retrieve his rod which was heading west hooked to a large fish.

One Arm Point extends out from the peninsula into King Sound. The small Aboriginal community here offers visitors access to the beautiful sandy beaches and rocks overlooking the crystal sea. The setting is idyllic, the picture of a tropical paradise. 

I can imagine a life here catching fish and eating coconuts with a bit of work every now and then. One local industry is harvesting and polishing shells for ornaments, jewellery and supplying the cosmetics and paint industries. A tour of the workshop is also a chance to get up close to coral, green turtles and barramundi raised in big pools.

Lissa loves fresh coconut. She has been feasting on the white flesh and drinking coconut water for breakfast each day since I grabbed a few green ones from a tree nearby. Splitting them is second nature for me, I’ve watched my fair share of Survivor.

The road from Broome has been sealed for 150km but only after 90km of sandy ruts and holes. Someone was telling me that this ensures that the communities on the Beagle Penninsula are classified as remote. It has the added benefit if keeping the traffic to a minimum.

A few nights in Broome have been a little pricey but definitely relaxing. Some parts of the trip feel like relentless travel grinding together with chores and school work. Swimming has been a constant companion for 2 months now and the results are starting to show. We all have tan lines. My legs resemble Top Deck Chocolate. Kael returns to the tent squinting from hours of Chlorine, Naomi dives and swims like a penguin. Today however, belonged to Eva. Months of bobbing around under waterfalls with arm floats were mere preparation for the new dawn of dog paddle minus the floats. First 2 metres, then 5, then 10, grinning the whole time and begging for another turn. It’s a big step for a little girl and she was feeling powerful and proud. 

We will need to be in the water with the Beave from now on.

The attractiveness of Broome is understandable. There is the natural beauty you’d expect and the freakishly good winter climate. Those with their pockets full can fly, float and fish all day returning to their luxurious digs and fine dining. Our itinerary included sunset at Cable Beach and hunting for dinosaur footprints on low tide at Gantheaume Point.

With Lissa taking on schooling supervision, I have become the tuck shop lady. One lady commented to me as we washed up side by side “A woman’s work is never done”.

I don’t usually give financial advice but I would be selfish not to pass this on. Chickpeas. Invest in Chickpeas. We have been chomping through a can a day since I have taken on cooking responsibilities. They are set to soar in value any day now. Get in on it.

It appears we have a budding comedian in the family. Eva informed that she can say “Uno” in French. She then proceeds to say “Uno” with a slight European accent. Champagne!